Paolo Scavino 2021 Barolo

The Wine Guy’s Tasting Note

Barolo is Nebbiolo, and Nebbiolo doesn’t do simple. The first sniff is roses and red cherries; the first sip brings the famous tannins — think strong black tea — but Scavino makes his in a style you can actually enjoy young, which is not something I say about most Barolo.

At Cafe Diva’s Sunday-night prix fixe, it was exactly right: enough structure to stand up to dinner, enough fruit to stay friendly through the last course. This is a wine that makes a good meal feel like an occasion.

At $120 on a restaurant list, that’s special-occasion money spent exactly right. Drink it now, with food — or hold it five years, if you’re patient. We are not.